Saturday, May 22, 2010

"Oh, [El Encino]'s just like any other rancho, only more so."

Wow. Mexico. So close to the United States, but couldn't be more different.

It was another week of building rapport amongst the villagers. I came across a few realizations along the way.

1. Life is different when you're the minority. I've never been the minority before in my life. I've never really been a foreigner before in my life. Once when I went to Greece and Italy for 2 weeks, but you don't get much of a cultural experience when you're busy being a tourist, shopping and looking at the world around you through a camera lens. Before I even open my mouth, everyone knows me as a güera. I already have a stereotype. Then when I do open my mouth, my accent adds to it, even if I'm speaking competently. It's not always a bad thing. It usually helps strike up interesting conversations, but it would certainly be different if I had cinnamon skin and a Mexican accent. I think, as humans, we don't like it when we don't understand something, so we make assumptions about other people. He's begging, so he's probably too lazy to find a job. She goes to a university so she must have worked hard to get there. They go to church every Sunday, so they must be a good family. We want to make sense of the world around us, so when someone looks different, we assume there is something different about their nature. We naturally stereotype people.

2. I had a really great conversation with a woman (we'll call her Maribel) for 2 hours. The most interesting part of the conversation came when we talked about illegal immigration. They live in the desert, but they majority of villagers depend on crops for survival. It's what their families have done for generations. They have homes that have existed for over 150 years. They know everyone in their town. It is their life. When the rains don't come, they can't just move. All they know to do is farm. They need money. They are experts at repairing their homes, sowing in the fields, picking crops, and herding animals. Their kind is a dying breed in the United States. They can get paid to do that there. If they go, their families won't starve. They can't wait a couple years for their papers to get in and be completely legal if they want to make sure their pregnant wife gives birth in a few months. They have to go. What struck me most was when Maribel said, "we aren't bad people." My heart melted. I know they aren't bad people. They welcome the gringos into their home. They feed us. They are eager to show us how to make goat cheese and sow in the fields. They ask us about our families and congratulate us when I tell them that my sister is engaged and ask about the wedding and how proud my parents must be. Their children come and greet me. They order a 20 gallon tank of water for me to keep in my room. They ARE good people. But they know that there is a stereotype in the United States against them. She told me about all her family members who are in the States right now and how she misses them. But there are no jobs in the ranchos. There are few more in the city which is an hour bus ride away. I think unemployment is worse here from what I've heard. My host mom, (we'll call her Salina), told me that her husband was out of work for 5 years, but always looking, and he was very qualified.
Now, I'm betting you're assuming Maribel's family members in the States immigrated illegally. You would be wrong. She told me how proud she was that they all had their papers. But, at the same time, she would be proud of them if they didn't have them. It's a dangerous voyage. I think most families would prefer it if they didn't have to go. But how couldn't they? How do you change the economy of an entire culture without irreparably changing the culture itself? You don't. It's impossible.

3. I went to Santa Rosa with my classmate (we'll call her Diana) on Wednesday. While we were waiting for another BYU student (we'll call him Carson) to arrive for our weekly group meeting, Diana, another student/our facilitator (we'll call him Max), and I were working on taking the paint off the roof of a casita so that they could add more cement on top to keep it from leaking during the "rainy" season. It was the middle of the day. Summer. The desert. Hot. We were banging on the roof with insufficient metal tools for a long time just to get a few square inches of paint chipped away. I got blisters. I laughed. I was an American in Mexico, doing the work that Mexicans stereotypically do in America. I pointed this out, and Max laughed and said he was thinking the same thing the day before. He said he understood now why so many Mexicans do this kind of work in the States. I did, too. They are good at it, because it's what they do at home. The difference is that in the States, we give them something better than a giant chisel or sickle to work with. No wonder Americans don't want to do this job. It's hard, especially if you don't have experience.

I suppose you could call this my rant on why I think we should respect our immigrants in the U.S. more. It probably won't be the last.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Mexico, I think this is the start of a beautiful amistad.

I've been in Mexico for a week, and already it feels weird to be on a computer or hold a cell phone in my hands. Living out in the ranchos where there is no service for internet or cell phones is certainly a different world. Being in the city on the weekends with these things feels unnatural. I don't like being on my computer like I used to. I would rather be talking to people face to face. That's how it is in the ranchos. Pure cara a cara contact. Everybody knows everybody. Everybody invites you in if you stop by their gate to talk for more than 30 seconds. It's strange to think that in the United States most people don't know their neighbors. It's something that's actually always bothered me about the United States. I guess it's because, in my opinion, you have to TRY to AVOID your neighbors to not get to know them. Why do we do that?

I have a place to stay! We gringos hunted around on Monday (Mother's Day in Mexico) in El Encino for a family that would let me and one of my classmates stay with them for 3 months. The first place was no dice, but the family we visited (we'll call them the Lalios) did invite us in for a couple hours and they fed us. I walk to their house every day to buy a bottle of water or 2, and yesterday they invited me in and showed me how they make the goat cheese that they sell. It's a family tradition. They sell it, along with some crops, from their house and in town in Irapuato. Sra. Lalio told me that all of her ancestors knew how to make it and so do her daughters. Very family oriented business. All over the ranchos in fact. It seems that very few ever leave. It seems that all the families are connected, which is not surprising since El Encino has somewhere around 300 residents whose ancestors have all lived there.

I found out a bit about the history of the ranchos the other day. My classmate (we'll call her, Compañera) and I walked to another rancho that is about 2 miles away called Comederito. We stopped by the primary school and I saw on the side a large painting of Emiliano Zapata holding a gun with a caption reading, "Es mejor morir a pie que vivir una vida a las rodillas." Something to the effect of it's better to die standing tall that to live being pushed around from my translation and what I know about the Mexican Revolution and Emiliano Zapata. I asked my host mom about it (we'll call her Salina), and she explained to me how Zapata had a huge influence on the ranchos of El Encino, La Estancia, and Comederito during the Revolution. All the residents worked to eat and sleep. They would raise 20 kilos of corn, give 15 to the dueños, and only be able to keep 5 for their family. They were forever in debt. The ideas and actions of Zapata greatly influenced these villagers to rise up against their lords. Salina told me that her great-grandfather was hung in town for his association with a secret rebel society. Lesson learned: if there's a man holding a gun on the side of an elementary school, ask about it. I'm ashamed to say that I had no idea that ranchos as tiny as these could have such a rich history.

There is an exciting even coming up! I'm going to be a madrina for a little girl's (we'll call her Elena) Presentación! Madrina means godmother, but I'm not THE godmother, it just means that I'm in charge of providing something for the festivities. I get to buy her esclavita (a special bracelet with her name and the date of La Presentación engraved on it). From what I know so far, when a Catholic child is 3 years old, there is a ceremony (La Presentación) where they child is brought forth in the Catholic Church and receives a special blessing. I'm assuming there's more to it than that, but I'll have to ask when I get back tomorrow. Elena's Presentación isn't for another fortnight, though, so you'll have to stay posted to hear how it goes. But, from what I know, every family in these 4 ranchos is Catholic, except for 1 Jehovah's witness. This reinforces a lot of the history that I've been reading on the relationship of the Catholic Church and rural areas of Latin America. I'm learning!

Of course, there is a TON more I could write here, but I must depart and go to a free concert in the Plaza Central, eat tostadas, and see Iron Man II with Spanish subtitles. ¡Hasta luego!